Sixty-Second Swirl by Brent Lello, Yass Valley Times Wine Columnist
In my view, dessert-style wines are not given the interest, time or respect they deserve. I put this down to wine drinkers not really understanding the style and that in order to really experience the true enjoyment of these wines, they really do need to be consumed with appropriate foods. The food can be either complementary in nature, or it can be contrasting. More to follow on this “Ying” or “Yang” wine and food phenomenon.
Some great dessert styles are available in the Yass Valley region, and one of the best I have enjoyed is the subject of this week’s “swirl” – the Pankhurst Wines Dessert Style Semillon 2009.
Alan and Christine Pankhurst have a passion for producing quality cool climate wines and it’s well worth your while to take a trundle along Wallaroo Road and try their full range. The views from the cellar door are out over the majestic Murrumbidgee towards the Brindabellas and are an enticing sight that sets the scene for a quality wine experience.
This dessert wine is gloriously golden in the glass, a respectful nod to its matronly maturity. A swirl delivers stunning aromas of cumquat marmalade, warmed butterscotch and burnt honey. The palate is mouth-coating rich and luscious with lifted honey and citrus marmalade flavours, with a lovely lift of acidity at the end. This is a great example of the style and there’s still plenty of ticker left in this wine.
We enjoyed our bottle with homemade classic Vanilla Crème Brûlée with candied orange segments – a heavenly complementary experience. You could continue down the complementary route with desserts of Panna Cotta or classic Crepes Suzette. Or you could travel down the contrasting path and enjoy this wine with creamy blue cheese or even duck liver pate with quince paste. The salty savouriness of the food contrasts with the luscious sweetness of the wine, which works wonders on the palate.
I sourced mine from the Pankhurst Wines cellar door, but you can also buy online for $20 (375 ml)
