If I was to ask the Yass Valley region’s wine-loving public “Can you name at least one of the region’s wine producers?” I’m pretty sure that the name “Helm” would be on the top of the response list. Rightly so, with Helm Wines being among the first to establish themselves in the region, way back in the early 1970’s and doing much over the years to promote the region as a destination for lovers of quality, cool climate wines.
Ken and Judith Helm have been producing a standout selection of cool climate wine wares for over four decades. While there are from time-to-time other wonderful wine offerings in the Helm stable, Ken has a laser focus on the production of two main grape varieties – pristine, pure Riesling and refined, elegant Cabernet Sauvignon. If you’re a lover of one of these two varieties, then you simply have to do yourself a favour and take a trip out to the Helm Wines cellar door.
Nestled in a valley, not far from the meandering bends of the Yass River, the Helm Wines cellar door is steeped in history. While the winery is a modern-day marvel, the cellar door experience is centred on the heritage-listed Toual Schoolhouse of 1888. Step inside, and you breathe in a sense of history and the pot belly stove is as warm and welcoming as the man himself – well, nearly. You see, Ken is a charismatic character, a yarn spinner and a man with an almost unfathomable knowledge of local, national and global history – not just on wine, but, well…everything really. And all of this he is willing to share with his wide-eyed customers, tasting glasses in hand and expectations at the ready.
I recently took the quick trip out to visit Ken and taste their latest range. Here is what we tried:
Helm Half Dry Riesling 2022 – sweet aromas of citrus blossoms and candied peel. Lemon and lime juice flavours with a soft, subtle hint of sweetness. Well suited to Asian dishes with a kick of heat and a lick of sour and sweet.
Helm Classic Riesling 2022 – aromas of freshly cut lemons and limes, with flavours of lemon juice and tropical guava, with a fine and lingering finish. Freshly grilled South Coast snapper fillets, olive oil, lemon juice and sea salt.
Helm Premium Riesling 2022 – this is next-level Riesling. Aromas of fresh citrus with a lifted, floral fragrance. The flavours are intensely citrus, with the palate texture almost puckering with generous and integrated acidity and a long-lasting finish.
Helm Classic Cabernet 2019 – aromas of blueberries and dark cherries with hints of cool climate spice, including crushed cloves and white pepper. The flavours are of ripe dark berry fruits with silky smooth tannins and a palate-pleasing finish. Slow braised beef cheeks for me with this one.
Helm Premium Cabernet 2022 – oh my! This is the business. Aromas of blueberries, blackcurrants and chocolate-coated cherries with a touch of cedar cigar box. Palate is of power and elegance with bright, ripe blue fruit flavours and a tight line of tannins. This has chargrilled, bone-in rib-eye steak written all over it.
Helm Wines are highly respected and fondly regarded by local, national, and international wine lovers alike. The Helm moniker adorns the wine list of many of Australia’s best restaurants. The wines can be found easily in many local pubs, cafes, and bottle shops too. But I am a believer that there is always more to a wine than what’s in the bottle. The story behind the wine is important too. If we know more about the challenges of the vintage, the techniques used to extract every last drop of wine and dollop of quality, the history and philosophy of the winery and the personality of the winemaker, then this all adds to the compelling character of the wines that we drink.
So, make the time. Take the trip. Meet Ken. Taste his wines. Listen to his stories. Take home your favourites. Drink with fine food and good company. The Helm wine experience is next level.
Winery Review – Helm Wines by Brent Lello, Yass Valley Times Wine Columnist
Photo at top Ken Helm in the cask room Dec by Petra Jungmanova
